Dublin with Kids: An Irishman’s Guide

What is there to do in Dublin with kids?

Start with Illusion Museum Dublin, Viking Splash, St Stephen’s Green and the hop-on hop-off bus.

Those were the hits with our two. Save the Book of Kells for a grown-ups’ morning.

Illusion Museum Dublin

Our kids really enjoyed this one. It’s right by Trinity College on College Green, a few steps from Grafton Street, so it slots easily into a day in the centre. It’s indoors and hands-on, which makes it a perfect rainy-day stop.

The Jeanie Johnston famine ship

The Jeanie Johnston is a replica famine-era emigrant ship moored on the Liffey at Custom House Quay. The guided tour tells the story of the families who left Ireland during the Famine. It’s a great primer if you’re also heading to the Dunbrody Famine Ship in Wexford, which I grew up near.

Which Dublin sights are better for grown-ups?

The Book of Kells, Kilmainham Gaol and the Irish Whiskey Museum.

All three are great, but they’re better on a grown-ups’ day or with older kids.

• Trinity College and the Book of Kells. The campus is lovely to walk around. The Book of Kells itself is honestly boring for kids.
• Kilmainham Gaol. It’s really good and an important part of Irish history. It’s a guided tour, so book ahead.
• Irish Whiskey Museum. It’s on Grafton Street, opposite Trinity. I’ve done it a few times and it’s good fun. Non-drinkers get a non-alcoholic option.

Is the hop-on hop-off bus worth it in Dublin?

Yes, it’s one of my biggest recommendations for families.

You see the whole city, the guides are entertaining, and it gets little legs between the big sights.

The route stops at the main places you’ll want anyway, including the Guinness Storehouse, Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Castle, Trinity College, and Dublin Zoo and Phoenix Park. Do one full loop to get your bearings, then use it as transport.

Can you do a Game of Thrones tour from Dublin?

Yes, and they’re very good.

Day tours leave Dublin for the filming locations in Northern Ireland. One route covers the Winterfell and “Haunted Forest” sites in County Down, and others head up the north coast. These are long days, so they suit older kids and fans of the show.

A day-trips guide is planned.

What are the best pubs in Dublin?

Baggot Street, Doyle’s and Café en Seine. Walk through Temple Bar but don’t drink there.

Here’s where I actually go.

• Baggot Street and Merrion Row, just off St Stephen’s Green. This is my top pick. A short walk takes you past several classic pubs, including Doheny & Nesbitt and Toners. O’Donoghue’s on Merrion Row pours a good pint of Guinness and is famous for its traditional music sessions. Walk the street and try a few.
• Doyle’s, outside Trinity College. This one’s pure nostalgia for me, from my UCD days. On a recent trip with Brooke’s aunt and uncle we ended up there nearly every night.
• Café en Seine, Dawson Street. It’s the upscale pick and beautifully decorated, especially at Christmas. Order the espresso martini; it’s excellent.
• The Bath, Sandymount. It’s beside the Aviva Stadium and near the Sandymount Hotel, so it’s a quieter base that’s still close to the action.
• Temple Bar. Walk through to see it, but it’s a heavy, pricey tourist trap. Drink elsewhere.
• A pubs and trad-music guide is planned.

Can kids go into pubs in Ireland?

Yes, with a parent, during the day and early evening.

Irish law lets children into a pub bar with a parent or guardian until 9pm. Some official guidance says 10pm in summer, but plan on 9. Staff can always ask you to leave.

Pubs are where a lot of Irish family life happens, especially over a weekend carvery. On our trip, the kids got an activity sheet while we enjoyed a pint.

What should you eat in Dublin?

A weekend carvery, a chipper and a chicken fillet roll, then a sit-down dinner at Hawksmoor or Fade Street Social.

Where should families stay in Dublin?

The College Green Hotel if you want to walk everywhere; the Sandymount Hotel if you want quiet.

The College Green Hotel Dublin, Autograph Collection

We stayed here on our last trip, and the location is perfect: it’s the most central spot for hitting everything on foot. The rooms are great. Our corner room faced up toward O’Connell Street with a view of the Spire. There’s a lovely tea area, though service there can be a little slow, so bring some patience. The Christmas decorations were awesome.

How do you get around Dublin without a car?

Walk, use the hop-on hop-off bus, and book taxis through Freenow or Bolt.

Don’t rent a car for the city. Parking is hard and much of the centre is pedestrianised.

Freenow (now owned by Lyft) and Bolt are the Uber/Lyft equivalents here. The Uber app works too, but in Dublin all three book licensed, metered taxis rather than private drivers. For the coast, the DART train runs south to Sandycove and Dún Laoghaire and north toward Malahide.

A driving-in-Ireland guide is planned.

Is Dublin safe for families?

Yes, with normal city sense.

Dublin is a busy capital, so treat it like any big city.

The centre on both sides of the Liffey is full of families and visitors. After dark, especially north of the river, stick to the main, busy streets rather than wandering down side streets. Keep an eye on bags and phones in crowded spots like Temple Bar, as you would anywhere.

What do you do in Dublin when it rains?

Go anyway; you’ll get a bit wet.

Rain is normal in Ireland, so execute the plan as it is.

Most of the best kids’ stops are indoors anyway: Illusion Museum Dublin, the Guinness Storehouse, the Jeanie Johnston and the Dead Zoo Lab. Viking Splash runs in the rain too.

A rainy-day guide is planned.

What are the best day trips from Dublin?

Dún Laoghaire and the Forty Foot, Malahide, the Wicklow Mountains, and Northern Ireland.

A day-trips guide is planned.

• Dún Laoghaire and the Forty Foot. Dún Laoghaire is on the coast, with lots of bars and restaurants. Next door in Sandycove is the Forty Foot, the famous year-round sea-swimming spot. It’s rocky and has no lifeguard, so keep kids close.
• Malahide. It’s on the north side, with nice bars and restaurants, and it’s not far from the airport. It makes a great last night before a morning flight home.
• The Wicklow Mountains are an easy day out south of the city.
• Belfast and the Game of Thrones locations are both doable as day trips.
• The west coast (Ring of Kerry, Cliffs of Moher, Galway Bay, Cork) is too far for a day trip. Book a few nights locally. The trains are good for getting there.
• Wexford, where I grew up. See the Wexford day trip.